Jean Shrimpton, photographed for French Vogue, May 1970. Via
I've written a fair bit about modelling on this blog over the years, whether it's the Ford Agency,
opening its doors in the 1940s, or three of my Last-Year Girls -
Dorian Leigh in the 1950s,
Jean Shrimpton in the 60s and
Marisa Berenson in the 70s. But my knowledge of the contemporary modelling industry is probably gleaned from a slightly toxic combination of
Vogue,
Top Model and
Daily Mail-style shock headlines.
I was intrigued by the promise of a new book
The Model's Guide. Promising "Everything you need to know about the world of professional modelling", the book was put together by working model Rachel Woods. I also thought it would be interesting to compare her advice to that offered by
Cherry Marshall in The Cat-Walk, published in 1978 but reflecting on her period as a model and an agent in the 1950s and 60s, and
Charles Castle's Model Girl which includes advice for people wanting to enter the industry in 1977.
As ever, as much as things change, things stay the same. While standards of what consists acceptable presentation may have shifted, all three books put the same emphasis on having a good attitude and a sparkling personality to go alongside the good looks. It's also interesting to note what the potential pitfalls for aspiring models are in each book. Cherry Marshall gives none, unless you count unscrupulous men, Charles Castle counsels against drink and smoking, Rachel Woods against drink and smoking and drugs. It's also only in Rachel's book do you get enter mention of eating disorders, and unnecessary pressure to lose weight.
For all the supposed glamour, I don't think any of the accounts convince me this is a career I would like to have (well, I'm at least 3 to 5 inches too short - depending on which book you follow - to start with, and that's the very least of it). I would be interested to know if you find any of their advice surprising - or useful!
*****
THE LOOK
No ordinary
girl ever thought she could look like a model – it was for the exquisitely
out-of-the-ordinary creature who looked too good for the clothes she was
showing.
Cherry
Marshall,
The Cat-Walk, on modelling in the mid-1950s
They need to have strong looks to go with the
clothes and the multi-million empires they advertise; to go with the tough
times the seventies have brought us.
Charles Castle,
Model Girl
Being a model is not about having
stunning good looks, most models can actually look very plain in person, but
what is essential is looking good on camera and being photogenic. The
ideal model look simply depends upon current trends and the look the designer,
client or casting director is going for; if a model does not get a job, it is
simply because their look did not fit the brief.
Rachel Woods,
The Model's Guide
VITAL STATS
The ideal model’s measurements are 116lb in weight,
34in bust, 22in waist, 34 inch hips and a preferred height of between 5ft 7in
and 5ft 9in.
Charles Castle,
Model Girl
High
Fashion, Ideal Details:
Editorial look; Age: 16–24 years old; Height:
5’9– 6’; Chest: 32–4 inches, Waist: 23–5 inches; Hips: 33–6 inches; Dress 6–8
UK, 0–4 US
Rachel Woods,
The Model’s Guide
PERSONALITY
We knew that
superficially Patti had certain drawbacks. She was un-modelly in the accepted
sense, her face was too round and she had a gap in her front teeth. But she had
a quality that we were always being asked for – a young exuberance and lack of
self-consciousness that illuminated all her pictures.
Cherry
Marshall,
The Cat-Walk
There are so
many models with the right look to work in this business, so having a
great attitude and personality is everything.
Cynthia Saldana, founder of Ikon New
York Model Management, quoted in Rachel Woods,
The Model’s Guide
CARRYING YOURSELF
A model not only learned how to walk
but how to site, stand, enter and leave a room, carry an umbrella and put on
and take off gloves correctly … She was expected to be elegant on and off duty.
Cherry Marshall,
The Cat-Walk
With pictures of Shrimp appearing all
round the world, hatless, hair untidy, minus gloves and with little make-up,
she set a standard we fought to resist. Every day complaints poured into the
agency about the model girls: untidy, unpunctual, ungroomed – even girls thrown
out of fashion shows for looking grotty. Jean Shrimpton was an original, and so
was Bailey, but their imitators fell far short of their standards.
Cherry Marshall,
The Cat-Walk
As a rule of thumb always get prepared
before walking into the building. Do not get caught by surprise. Do not walk in
with your hair a mess, change your footwear if need be before walking in, take
your coat off, get your portfolio out your bag and do anything else you need
to. It could be the case that you will go straight into the casting, or you
could have a long wait. Either way, you don’t know who will be there at the
other side of the door when you walk in, so make sure you have a good entrance.
Rachel Woods,
The Model’s Guide
Models at a Manchester modelling school, before a show, 1954. Via
CASTINGS
They’d turn up for interviews in their
jeans, chewing gum, hair uncombed, quite unimpressed by the glossy pictures on
the walls of our successful girls.
Cherry Marshall,
The Cat-Walk
Clients usually prefer to see your
shape as best as possible, so either wear skinny jeans and tight tops or
ideally (weather depending) show your legs by wearing a skirt, shorts or dress.
Rachel Woods,
The Model’s Guide
BEAUTY
For good health, you need enough sleep. Six to
eight hours seems adequate for many, but you yourself may need more in order to
feel fresh and energetic. Lack of sleep reveals itself in the loss of skin tone
and colour, loss of hair luster, and eyes without that bright, lively glint.
Charles Castle,
Model Girl
Finally, MUAs
[Makeup Artists] appreciate having to do less work, because time is always of
the essence. So the model can cut down a lot of time by showing up with good
skin. This can be achieved by having proper rest and hydration (drinking lots
of water), avoiding diuretics like alcohol and caffeine and getting regular
facials if you're prone to breakouts. The more work you do to keep yourself
looking fresh and rested, the less work the makeup artist will have to do, the
day will go faster and everyone will thank you!
Anni Bruno, Makeup Artist (MUA), quoted in Rachel Woods,
The Model’s Guide
VICES
Too much smoking and drinking leaves its marks on
your looks. Cut it out, or reduce your intake.
Charles Castle,
Model Girl
It is also advisable to keep alcohol
intake to a minimum or ideally none at all (especially before a shoot), not to
smoke or take drugs, all of which will age your skin prematurely and be
potentially damaging to your career not to mention your overall health. There
can be a lot of peer pressure in the industry to smoke or drink, but you just
need to remember that it is your career and yours alone that you need to think
of. Your look and body is your career, so
you should look after it and treat it with respect.
Rachel Woods,
The Model’s Guide
DIET
There are many pre-conceived notions
that you must be extremely skinny in order to be a good model, this notion
encourages many models, new and experienced to want to lose weight. This desire
to lose the pounds quickly can lead to eating disorders such as Anorexia or
Bulimia. This is not a good lifestyle to have. Any job that compromises your
health is not the right job for you. Do not let anyone entice you to lose
weight; not your agent, photographers, or other models.
Rachel Woods,
The Model’s Guide
MAKE-UP
Every face had to be made up to
perfection … no model girl would dream of being seen without her ‘face’ on no
matter how young or beautiful she was.
Cherry Marshall,
The Cat-Walk
Models in Paris,
however, are spoiled because highly-paid make-up artists and hairdressers visit
Vogue and Elle and many of the top photographic studios to apply the models’
make-up and style their hair. In New York and London, however, the models are
more self-sufficient and this helps them immensely with assignments on location
throughout the world.
Charles Castle,
Model
Girl
The number
one piece of advice I can give to a model hoping to gain favour with their
makeup artist is to show up with a clean face. If the model shows up to the
photo shoot with her makeup already done, that's a BIG no-no and a sure-fire
way to tell the makeup artist that you don't trust them to do great work!
Anni Bruno,
Makeup Artist (MUA), quoted in Rachel Woods,
The Model’s Guide
RELATIONS WITH YOUR AGENT
A model today has to be tough about
everything – fees, work and opportunities – and she can afford to be very
demanding when she’s on top. But if she’s not doing much she’ll get short
shrift from her agent who is mainly interested in success.
Cherry Marshall,
The Cat-Walk
An agent can only do so much for a
girl. IF the ambition is lacking, either through laziness or lack of
confidence, you’re on a losing wicket.
Cherry Marshall,
The Cat-Walk
There is one aspect that agents don’t
always make known (or it may simply be an unconscious thing) is the fact that
they often have ‘favourite’ models. The handful of ‘elite’ models are deemed by
the agency as being particularly special and more unique than the hundreds of
other models on their books and are consequently nurtured more, pushed forward
more, supported more and are therefore more likely to reach the ‘supermodel’
status. It is often a catch 22
situation, in the sense that if a model is ‘in demand’ (meaning highly sought
after for work) they will become a ‘favourite’ model amongst the agency and be
pushed forward more. However, it is only after being pushed forward by the
agency in the first place, because they felt there was potential with the
model, that they became ‘in demand’.
Rachel Woods,
The Model’s Guide
NETWORKING
Girls are expected to put in an
appearance at the right kind of party and meet at the smartest places. It’s all
very friendly to start with – until bookings start to drop off and then
invitations do as well.
Cherry Marshall,
The Cat-Walk
In order to network, you should also
aim to attend as many events as possible that you are invited to. If you
receive any invite where there will be other industry professionals attending,
you should always try and go, as events are a great way of building up more
contacts in a relaxed, sociable setting.
Just remember, don’t over-do the
partying too much, models still need to have a decent amount of sleep, as they
need to stay looking refreshed for work the next day!
Rachel Woods,
The Model’s Guide
MAKING IT
They didn’t care that only a few girls
reached the top and only a few girls reached the top and that most models ended
up at a fashion house, rarely seeing the outside world at all and usually
earning far less than before. It was the most glamorous career open to a girl,
and they wanted to be part of it.
Cherry Marshall,
The Cat-Walk
Memories and scrap-books of fashion covers and
breathtaking photographs when their youth, health, beauty and earning powers
were at their peak are satisfying reminders of their abilities and a
determination to succeed in their chosen field; the most highly paid and
glamorous a young girl can enter.
Charles Castle,
Model Girl
The one
thing however that I have never forgotten from my lesson, was when I was told
that ‘less than 1% of all models make it to supermodel status’. This book
therefore focuses on the hard working, average models that form the backbone
and other 99% of the industry … the key to succeeding and ultimately staying in
the industry is stay positive and develop a very thick-skin!
Rachel Woods,
The Model’s Guide
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